More Fabric, more quilting, and sock knitting

I've been working on hand quilting my "Living room" quilt for the past two weeks. I decided to do diagonal lines on the blue and green blocks and squares in the browns/tans/striped blocks. That took me about a week. I was stumped about the border and then settle on two simple straight rows of hand quilting. The border will be 6" and I did the lines at 2 & 4" from the edge. I like how it looks and was simple to do. Next up: trim the extra backing fabric and batting, sew on the binding, and then decide on whether to sew it down by hand or machine.

I've done a bit of fabric purchasing, for future quilts.
Mastermind Fat Quarters (Connecting Threads) for a quilt and 3 pillowcases


Bookish Charm Pack (Connecting Threads) for a hexagon project


Fox Hollow Organic Fat Quarters (Monaluna from Pink Castle Fabrics) for ??? I love the fabric and it was on sale. Every once in a while I need something cute in my life.


and a swatch with 4 quilt labels and a custom FQ from Spoonflower:

I love this so much because I made it with my kids. They gave me a list of things they like and I made a text fabric with it. I wish I would have set the block differently, but ended up with 3 full blocks and one that was split (top and bottom halves). I think I'll make each of them something using a block of the fabric

I have been making socks lately, but little progress on the sweater front. Still pretty warm here and not great weather for inspiring sweater making. It will be cold soon, and hope the mood will return then.

And now with the Catch-up Edition

Well, it has been a long time since I've posted anything here on this blog. Over a year!?! I have been busy writing knitting patterns: Spiralini

and Scraptastic.

Lots of knitting was done as well. Many sweaters, socks, toys, and accessories.

Last fall, I got back into spinning. Here's a favorite from Unwind Yarn Company (Falkland)

I knit with my handspun, which was wonderful. These are some socks from FatCat SW Merino:


And this summer, I got bitten by the sewing and quilting bugs. Crazy. When I was in high school, I sewed a lot. Lots of clothes, even a swim suit! Then I sort of stopped sewing during college (mostly) and didn't pick it up until I was pregnant 10+ years ago. Unfortunately, I bought a terrible machine that ruined sewing for me. It was a pain to use and made ever sewing project frustrating. So, this summer, I sold it and went back to an old favorite of mine. My mom bought a Singer Featherweight 221 in the late 1950's and it is now the machine I've been using. It is not big, but I love it so and enjoy working on it.

Here's what I have made so far:
a baby quilt out of a "Ten Little Things" charm pack.


I've been making a twin size quilt for our living room. Colors chosen by my 5 year old. That may sound scary, but he actually has a pretty good eye for color. I'm hand quilting it, but here's a QIP picture.


I made a pair of gift project bags from this tutorial. They are on their way to two knitters.


 I also have started making cute hexagons from my tiny scraps collection. I made a needle book out of felt and 1.5" hexagons from a tutorial.


There is also a bunch of fabric on the way from Connecting Threads. They have a techie line of fabric and one with books. Pretty much sums up our family in a nutshell. Pictures of that when they arrive.

I took a dye class as well. Fun!




Hopefully I'll be able to use the blog again more frequently. I think I started it when my oldest started kindergarten. Next week my youngest will be going to kindergarten. Time really flies!

I think I've realize this past summer that I want to be more "well rounded" in my crafting. I forgot how much I enjoyed sewing and that I'm actually pretty good at it. A bit rusty, but I know what I'm doing at that machine. Same for spinning. I spun some fiber 8 years ago, then finished it up last year. It was nearly an exact match for what I made before. Consistency. I sort of went crazy with my yarn purchases when I first was introduced to hand-dyed yarns and collected quite a stash. Now, I'm trying to avoid that pitfall with fabric purchases. I understand a need for fabric on hand, but also know that it is not good just to buy things because I'm having a bad day or without a project in mind. I also realized that I have a lot of sweaters, socks, and hats and really need to make other things that my family can use. Hopefully my hobbies will not feel like they are a chore to use up materials, but be creative outlets that make me happy. My goal is a usable supply of materials, just enough to inspire and not too much to make me feel guilty.

Sweater Fit Theory by Jane Tanner

I have noticed that some sweaters, often top-down raglans, end up producing ill-fitting underarm areas. Often there is a lumpy poof of extra fabric on the body, arm, or both. I often thought this was because I’m not very busty or because it was an issue with ease. However, even if I’m making the correct size for my torso, I still get these lumps on certain sweaters. I see them on other peoples’ sweaters too. So why are they there?

After looking over measurements and formulas for many different styles of sweaters, I think I may have come up with the reason. I’ll begin with two examples which don’t produce lumps and then look at one that does.

Example 1: Elizabeth Zimmermann's EPS system uses a mathematical formula to plan for customizable fit. K is the term used to express the body stitches needed, calculated by multiplying your gauge by your body circumference. The body is 100% of K, arm circumferences 35%, underarm stitches 8% of K (there is some flexibility allowed in the percents, but I’m going to use a simple version here). On a bottom-up sweater, the yoke is created when 8% of K stitches are removed from each sleeve (35-8=27%) and twice on the body for the corresponding underarms (100-8-8=84%). The sleeves are then knit onto the body with the underarm stitches on holders to be seamed later. Mathematically, the EZ yoke is 84+27+27=138% of K or 1.38K. This produces a sweater without the dreaded lumps.

Example 2: Stefanie Japel uses a top-down method that increases to the full arm and full body circumferences. Mathematically this ended up being somewhere around 166-169% of K on her sweater (100% for the body, and 33-34.5% for each sleeve). This method also produces a nice sweater, without the lumps.

So, why can two methods get great results and be so different? Why are other methods making the lumps? I think it is because of a term I like to refer to as total circumferences (T). If I were to add up EZ's and Japel's total arms and body circumferences, they both come in around 166%-170% of K or 1.66K-1.7K.

• EZ’s: add the yoke percents 27+27+84 to the four sets of underarm percentages 8+8+8+8 for a total of 170% of K or 1.7 K. (If using the smaller percentages of EZ’s EPS method, you can get a T number closer to 1.66K.)
• Japel’s: yokes are typically 166-169% of K or 1.66-1.69K

Although they are constructed differently and are the extreme opposites for underarm stitches cast on, they both arrive at a similar T values. I have looked at sweaters that had no underarm stitches (0% of K), a few (1-2% of K), several (3-4% of K), and many (5-8% of K) and all seemed to fit into this theory.

The Math: Now look at a top-down raglan sweater:
1. Calculate the body stitch count for the sweater=sweater circumference x gauge=K.
2. Look at the number of stitches for the yoke before dividing for the body and sleeves. Add the underarm stitches you are to add four times to this number. Why add the underarm stitches four times? Because you are casting those stitches on to make the underarms on the body of the sweater (two times) and later they will be stitches picked up for each sleeve (two times). This is T (total circumferences stitch count).
3. Divide T by K. If the number is 1.7 or below, the sweater will fit nicely at the underarms. If it is over 1.7, it will be lumpy. The closer you get to 1.8, the lumps get bigger.

Example 3: the math from a lumpy sweater top-down raglan
1. A sweater with a gauge of 6 stitches/1 inch and a circumference of 37” would have 222 stitches=K.
2. Increase yoke to 370 stitches. Add 6 underarm stitches four times=370+6+6+6+6=394 stitches=T.
3. 394/222=1.77K (177% of K)
Result: this sweater did not fit as well as I would like in the underarm area.

Data Collection: Here’s where I’d like a bit of Citizen Mathematician Assistance. Look at your top-down raglans (or sweaters in general) and look for one with the lumps and look for one that fits well in the underarm area. Do the math described in the steps above and see if my theory works for your body shaping. I’m curious if this theory works for others or just my build. Perhaps for your shape you can wear something with a T of 1.75K better than a 1.68 with no resulting underarm issues. Or, perhaps you can go up to 1.72K will no ill effects. Feed back and comments welcome!

Conclusion: If this theory works for you, then it may be of use in the future. Before beginning a project, run through the calculations and see what kind of a T measurement you get. Does it work for your body type? If not, then make some alterations. Reduce or add underarm stitches or alter the number of stitches you need to increase to for the yoke. Hopefully the knowledge will result in better fitting sweaters.

Happy 2011 (the February Edition)

2010 ended with most of my goals completed. I did an accidental 10x10x10x10 of projects: 10 sock pairs, 11 hats, 11 sweaters, 11 shawls).

I also designed a new hat pattern Arboretum. I love how the cables turned out.

For 2011 my goals are:

• 11 pairs of socks, 11 sweaters, 11 accessories (hat/mitt/scarf/shawl/wrap/etc)
• use more of my handspun yarn and at least one skein of fingering weight/sock yarn per month
  
• continue to record yarn knit using knitmeter.com and keep track of how many yards I’m bringing in
• read more

I've started using Shelfari and am doing more audio books. Great for knitting time.

End of 2009/Plans for 2010

Well, 2009 ended up with me sick/injured for quite a bit of time, so it seems that the blog record has suffered. Here's how things ended up:

DONE Sweaters/big projects= 18 of 12 (#s for NaKniSweMoDo only):
1. Blue Brooks Farm Solo (EZ set in sleeve, v-neck sweater)-completed 1/12/09
2. Black Cascade 109 (SweaterBabe Vine Lace Cardigan)-completed 2/11/09
3. Plucky Knitter Merino Sock (top down u-neck)-completed 3/2/09
a. Blues Cascade 109 (Kiki Rug/Mason Dixon book)-completed 3/13/09
4. Ruby Port Sundara FSM (Henley Perfected Sweater)-completed 3/15/09
5. Savoir Faire Plucky Knitter MCN Sport (top down W. Bernard-style)-completed 4/20/09
6. Black Parade Smooshy Sock (Featherweight Cardigan)-completed 5/18/09
7. Tan Ella Rae Worsted (Cassidy cabled cardigan)-completed 5/25/09
8. Plum Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece (Buttercup top)-completed 5/29/09
9. Plum Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece (3rd try sweater)-completed 6/2/09
10. Peacock Plucky Knitter fingering 50 silk/50 merino-completed 6/18/09
11. Black Cascade 220 Superwash (Slinky Ribs henley)- completed 7/7/09
12. LE Music of the Night Sundara FSM (Apres Surf Sans Hoodie)-completed 8/4/09
13. LE The Celebration Sundara FSM (Liesl)-completed 8/15/09
14. LE Second Look Sundara Sock (February Lady)-completed 9/9/09
15. Duchess Madelinetosh Wren (Evening Shrug)-completed 9/17/09
16. Black Cascade 109 (Anise)-completed 10/04/09
17. Soot KnitPicks Lace Wt (Whisper Cardigan)-completed 11/9/09
18. Wisteria Madelinetosh Worsted (Tea Leaves)-completed 11/26/09

DONE For others projects=29! of 12
18. socks for mom
19. socks for W
20. socks for A
21. socks for L
22. Daybreak for mom
23. Rib-a-roni Malabrigo Twist for L
24. Rib-a-roni Plucky MCN worsted Morticia for Jon
25. Vest for baby G
26. felted bag for AEA
27. socks for Jon
28. Rib-a-roni Malabrigo Twist for BB
29. STOCKING for L

Overall, I'm very pleased with how these two large projects turned out. I never thought I'd make both goals honestly. I still have tons of sweater yarn and sock yarn to use, but it felt very good to make all those gifts for my family and friends. I love it that my family is enjoying wearing handmade socks. Very satisfying for a knitter.

For 2010, my goals are Knitting Everest and 10 Shawls in 2010. My KE project is to spin up all (seriously) my fiber stash and make projects from some of it (not necessarily all of it). I'm nearly done with the alpaca. I think the alpaca will become a Moderne Log Cabin blanket (Mason-Dixon pattern). I have a lot of natural wool colors, one in enough for a full sweater, maybe 2 vests/tops, or lots of colorwork. I've also updated my spinning records. I have some fiber I may destash as well. I can't buy any new fiber until this is gone.

For 10 shawls, I need to do at least two over 546 yards (500 m), with the rest over 273 yards (250 m). I'm working on the first one (Citron in Knit Picks lace).

I'm still interested in IntSweMoDo2010, but I may only try for 6 sweaters.

Ravelympics will be two projects (so far)-Sundara and ESK. I think that is all I'm going to attempt.

I'm also on a bit of a yarn diet. I'm going to try my yarn knit and not buy anything until the Knit-In in March (unless it is for a gift).

Those are the goals. After seeing the results of last year, I'm realizing that I need to set them to keep focused and stay motivated. I also like seeing the FO pictures in the Ravelry groups.

Mid October Update

Socktober has begun and I'm plugging away. I finished my February Lady Socks in Squoosh Confection. I also am participating in the Mystery Sock KAL from Through the Loops using my malabrigo sock-cordovan (US1). That is going pretty well. New clues on Thursdays, knitting both socks because I had parts of two skeins leftover from Jon's socks. I also started Jon's Plucky Merino Socks in Nessie. Boy, I love that yarn. Those are counting toward my Sock Knitters Anonymous October project. Such fun groups and very motivating. If I finish those by the end of the month, I'll be pretty satisfied.

I started my Whisper Cardigan, but it is on hold due to the socks in progress. More to come on that. Plus, it was really cold for two weeks and a lace wt. sweater seemed silly.

I did finish my next NaKniSweMoDo sweater. Love IT. It is Anise from Rowan and I used the remaining Cascade 109 in black. It is a great dressy sweater.


DONE Sweaters/big projects= 16 of 12 (#s for NaKniSweMoDo only):
1. Blue Brooks Farm Solo (EZ set in sleeve, v-neck sweater)-completed 1/12/09
2. Black Cascade 109 (SweaterBabe Vine Lace Cardigan)-completed 2/11/09
3. Plucky Knitter Merino Sock (top down u-neck)-completed 3/2/09
a. Blues Cascade 109 (Kiki Rug/Mason Dixon book)-completed 3/13/09
4. Ruby Port Sundara FSM (Henley Perfected Sweater)-completed 3/15/09
5. Savoir Faire Plucky Knitter MCN Sport (top down W. Bernard-style)-completed 4/20/09
6. Black Parade Smooshy Sock (Featherweight Cardigan)-completed 5/18/09
7. Tan Ella Rae Worsted (Cassidy cabled cardigan)-completed 5/25/09
8. Plum Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece (Buttercup top)-completed 5/29/09
9. Plum Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece (3rd try sweater)-completed 6/2/09
10. Peacock Plucky Knitter fingering 50 silk/50 merino-completed 6/18/09
11. Black Cascade 220 Superwash (Slinky Ribs henley)- completed 7/7/09
12. LE Music of the Night Sundara FSM (Apres Surf Sans Hoodie)-completed 8/4/09
13. LE The Celebration Sundara FSM (Liesl)-completed 8/15/09
14. LE Second Look Sundara Sock (February Lady)-completed 9/9/09
15. Duchess Madelinetosh Wren (Evening Shrug)-completed 9/17/09
16. Black Cascade 109 (Anise)-completed 10/04/09
17. Soot KnitPicks Lace Wt (Whisper Cardigan)-begun 10/10/09

DONE For others projects=16 of 12
17. Nessie Plucky Knitter Merino Sock (Jon's socks)-begun 10/11/09


February Lady Socks for me
Rib-a-roni hat for W

Dane-Ish Scarf for mom in Malabrigo sock-velvet grapes

End of September/October Plans

Where did the last two months go? School started (middle one in Kindergarten now!) and lots of knitting I guess.

I finished three more sweaters, a stocking, 4 hats, 2 shawls/scarves, 1 pair of mitts, and a disappointing felt tote. I love the two Gretel hats I made; one with Plucky MCN sport and the other is Madelinetosh Worsted. Yum!!! I participated in Single Skein September with the Stash and Burn Groupies, which is why there were quite a few small projects in there. So nice after all the sweaters! Two of my projects ended up in the Episode #83 photo (1st column, top and bottom pics).

Next up is October and Socktober. I have quite a few skeins of sock yarn which need to get made into something. My goals are to make at least three from this group:
-finish Squoosh "Confection" (February Lady Socks)
-Plucky "Nessie" socks for Jon
-Ruby Port Sundara (to match Henley Perfected sweater)
-Malabrigo "Cordovan" doubled
-KP Essential "Soot" for Jon
-Figure out a pattern for the Squoosh "Curry"
-Green socks for L

I also have some lace yarn to make some lightweight sweaters for next spring. I still want to make a Whisper Cardigan. I finally bought the magazine because the digital version was just not happening soon enough. More sweaters are out there, waiting to be knit. I started Anise; bulky sweaters knit up so fast!

DONE Sweaters/big projects= 15 of 12 (#s for NaKniSweMoDo only):
1. Blue Brooks Farm Solo (EZ set in sleeve, v-neck sweater)-completed 1/12/09
2. Black Cascade 109 (SweaterBabe Vine Lace Cardigan)-completed 2/11/09
3. Plucky Knitter Merino Sock (top down u-neck)-completed 3/2/09
a. Blues Cascade 109 (Kiki Rug/Mason Dixon book)-completed 3/13/09
4. Ruby Port Sundara FSM (Henley Perfected Sweater)-completed 3/15/09
5. Savoir Faire Plucky Knitter MCN Sport (top down W. Bernard-style)-completed 4/20/09
6. Black Parade Smooshy Sock (Featherweight Cardigan)-completed 5/18/09
7. Tan Ella Rae Worsted (Cassidy cabled cardigan)-completed 5/25/09
8. Plum Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece (Buttercup top)-completed 5/29/09
9. Plum Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece (3rd try sweater)-completed 6/2/09
10. Peacock Plucky Knitter fingering 50 silk/50 merino-completed 6/18/09
11. Black Cascade 220 Superwash (Slinky Ribs henley)- completed 7/7/09
12. LE Music of the Night Sundara FSM (Apres Surf Sans Hoodie)-completed 8/4/09
13. LE The Celebration Sundara FSM (Liesl)-completed 8/15/09
14. LE Second Look Sundara Sock (February Lady)-completed 9/9/09
15. Duchess Madelinetosh Wren (Evening Shrug)-completed 9/17/09
16. Black Cascade 109 (Anise)-started 9/26/09

DONE For others projects=16 of 12
14. Velvet Grapes Malabrigo Sock (Dane-Ish scarf-Mom) completed 9/24/09
15. Knit Picks Stroll Sport (Dawson's Stocking) completed 9/21/09
16. Plymouth Encore Red/Blue (Rib-a-roni hat-W) completed 9/29/09

Gretel-Madtosh Worsted Silver Fox
Liesl-Sundara FSM The Celebration LE
February Lady-Sundara Sock Second Look LE
Evening Shrug-Madelinetosh Wren Duchess